On Regrets…And My Last Two Weeks

Regrets…I have but a few. The biggest of which is not climbing Fuji-san during my time in Japan. When I arrived there was an Okayama AJET group going, but I decided not to go then, saving the trip for a separate occasion with a smaller group of friends in the future. Then time flew and the chance to go dissappeared with a busy summer. I did see Fuji from the five-lakes area when Dan visited during last year’s Golden Week, but alas we couldn’t climb then. Then Tim and Joe arrived, we bought head-lights, and were on the verge of going one saturday, but stayed out in Okayama all night on the friday, scuppering that chance. Time has flown again and now the climbing season is upon us- but I have no time to go now and it’ll have to be saved for the future.

This Saturday is the English Teachers Farewell Party- a chance to drink with and thank the many teachers I have taught with at Shonan High School. Then I have separate farewells on tuesday and wednesday with my kindergarten teacher, Reito, and his students, followed by a separate Kojima drinking party with Kawahara and Kagawa senseis. Thursday gives me a chance to pack and clean, then the last weekend in Japan is upon me, with farewell events galore before I leave Okayama Prefecture on tuesday 5th August. A day and a half follow, during which I’ll do a few bits and bobs, before flying home to Igirisu on friday 8th, via Hong Kong. My mood is predominantly sad, and although it’ll be nice to see everyone back home it really does feel like I’m leaving my home. Still, the door is always open for an eventual return, and going to Korea just two weeks after I get back home should keep me sufficiently busy to not get too nostalgic (not that I need much time to do that mind you)

Blog Update 3- Shonan and Seishi Seito Sayonaras

Last Friday I had my farewell ceremonies at both Seishi and Shonan High Schools, where I said goodbye to my lovely students. Both ceremonies were very emotional, and I headed home after an exhausting day laden down with flowers, presents and messages. I’ll miss my favourite students a lot- but I’ve got photos to remember them by and emails by which to keep in touch. And most importantly, happy memories…

The Giving of the Guitar- my electric Ibanez being passed on to Yui-chan.

More On Crispy Monday- these photos are taken from “Crispy Monday”, when mine and Michishita sensei’s OC class was transformed into a flurry of culinary expertise. I made Choco Crispies, she made Cookies. It was a really fun lesson- instead of the usual English teaching, I got to teach the students how to cook in Japanese, a challenging experience with mixed results. Most importantly I got to talk to my Monday class properly- the best class by far of the current first year students- for the last time.

Nakasone Sensei Class

Michishita Sensei Class

The Fun Cooking Group (Sans Aprons)

The More Serious Cooking Group (Avec Aprons)

Checking The Crispies

Blog Update 2- Last Dash To Kansai

Last weekend I went to Kansai for the last time. I’ve been to the Kansai area countless times over the last two years (although I did try to count them- 7 times to Kobe, 6 times to Osaka, and 5 times to Kyoto I think), and this was a sort of farewell visit. We hung out in Kobe, took photos of the bustling Sannomiya train station, briefly experienced the not entirely pleasurable mass of people at Osaka JR station, and visited the shiny-ness of Kyoto station and my favourite temple, Heian Jingu. I also managed to get back to Koshien Stadium to buy a “happi” coat, a kind of festival matsuri style short gown that goes perfectly with nikkopokko trousers and tabi boots- I’ll post a photo of me in this crazy outfit if I have time.

Blog Update 1 – A Trip To Shimotsui

In an effort to blog up my recent happenings for posterity, I thought I’d start by showing a few pics from the exploration of Shimotsui a couple of weeks ago. Shimotsui is a traditional village community located right next to the base of the Seto-Ohashi Bridge, and the Seto Inland Sea. It’s one of the few places in Japan that doesn’t have a convenience store! I cycled about 10 miles round the coast from Kojima, and back, on a beautiful summers day, stopping for lunch in an okonomiyaki restaurant run by an elderly lady, Sato-chan. It was a great trip!

That Magic Hanshin Moment…One More Time

Last Thoughts on…Hanshin Tigers

On Wednesday I went to Kurashiki’s Muscat Stadium to see Hanshin take on Yakult, a re-run of the same fixture I saw at Koshien Stadium, when Hanshin triumphed courtesy of a 9th innings Arai sayonara home run. This time around the game was less than exceptional- in fact, if my Koshien experience was perhaps the best game Hanshin have played this season- truly- then my Muscat experience was undoubtedly the worst they’ve played! We lost 6-0, with the 6 runs coming in the 1st and 2nd innings, leaving the rest of the game devoid of entertainment save for the releasing of the sperm shaped balloons. We did have a manrui chance in the 8th, but Arai and Kanemoto squandered it like so many others.

With that it looks like my Hanshin experiences are finished- no more time to go to games, but the Hanshin spirit- and the many many branded goods I’ve bought- will always remain within my heart. We still lead the Ce-League, and should wrap up first place before the incredibly exciting Autumn Nippon-Series, something I’m loath to miss…but c’est la vie.

Steve’s Top Three Hanshin Players

3. Arai Takahiro (1st base Infielder, This Season 0.314, 8 Home Runs)

Arai’s a new recruit this season, having joined from the Hiroshima Carp. He’s got a great record as third batsmen, and cements his place as one of the first names on the team sheet by being a great first base infielder. Kattobase, Arai!

2. Kanemoto Tomoaki (Outfielder, This Season 0.332, 15 Home Runs)

It’s not an understatement to say Kanemoto IS Hanshin Tigers- he’s been playing for the team for donkeys years, is almost 40 now and is a Japanese batting institution. He takes star place in the batting line-up- forth batter- and is our top home run hitter. Kattobase, Kanemoto!

1. Akahoshi Norihiro (Outfielder, This Season 0.317)

Akahoshi not only has one of the coolest Japanese surnames around, but is also a great first batter, consistently getting to first base and stealing bases from there on in. As first batter he doesn’t hit home runs, but his record is fantastic. Kattobase, Akahoshi!

And lets not forget the other stars of Hanshin Tigers! Hirano, Toritani, Hiyama, Katsuragi, Yano, and our star mid-game/closing line up JFK- Jeff Williams, Kubota and Kyuji Fujikawa. What a team! I’ll miss them greatly.

Last Thoughts on The Lord of the Rings

Yesterday I met Kawabe-san to receive my Clarity Ring. It was beautifully presented in a wooden box lined with denim, symbolising Kojima’s traditional industry of jeans manufacturing. I’m wearing it right now. We ended up having loads of beers, and talking with the owner of the izakaya we were in all about the yakuza- a topic I’m really interested in, but up until now haven’t really had the chance to ask about. There were only the 4 of us in the place- including the owner- otherwise I doubt we would have talked about a topic that people really don’t discuss. Yet I was amazed by how prevalent the yakuza are in everyday life, and active in the businesses in Kojima. I found out the name of the head boss in our area, and learnt how to say “I belong to the #### yakuza group, give me a discount” in Japanese! Not something I should shout about, but the yakuza do get discounts. It seems that their major source of income in the area isn’t pachinko (an industry predominantly controlled by the Korean mafia), nor drugs (a limited market in Japan when possession and dealing penalties are a lot stricter than in the UK), but “water businesses”. These are businesses that close on “suiyobi”, wednesday, and sell alcohol. The yakuza tax the sale of liquor and gain revenue from such places. They own private boats and sail out to islands in the Inland Sea to relax and practice shooting. A few years ago the boss in the Kojima area did something wrong, and word was given from above (all yakuza in the Okayama area descent from Yamaguchi-gumi, the biggest yakuza organisation in Japan, based in Kobe) that he had to leave for Shikoku. Since then ##### san has taken over.

Recruitment
Recruitment for the yakuza starts at an early age- 14 or 15. Yakuza come to New Years celebrations and make omocha, a traditional sweet made (of course) of bean paste, which is pounded excessively until it takes on the right consistency. It is then that chugakkosei students (Junior High) are recuited into the organisation. As such, its rare that I see dodgy figures hanging around Shonan High- by that time potential candidates have already been picked off. These youngsters, who have little education, are known as “chimpiras”, often hanging around on street corners or outside of the local bosses house. They’re easy to recognise- always dressed in “jaji”, or sportswear.

Resistance
The owner of the izakaya we were in yesterday was a real character- a 60 year old women that refuses to pay the yakuza a penny. For some unknown reason they respect this, and actually protect her- my friends were joking that shes like a one woman yakuza organisation!

10 Things I’ve Loved About Japan

A fairly self-explanatory post title really. 10 things- in some sort of an order- that I’ve loved and will miss about Japan.

10. Kyoto/Kansai

Kyoto squeezes onto the list almost by default. Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji, Kiyomizudera, the Path of Philosophy, Fushimi Inari, and much, much more- Kyoto has more temples and shrines than any other place in the country. Yet the real reason it’s on this list is not only the place itself but also the easy access there is to other star attractions- Nara, less than an hour to the south, Osaka, Kobe, and of course Hanshin Tigers’ Koshien Stadium. The Kansai Region- Omoro!

9 – Crazy Gameshows and Owarai

Slapstick comedy taken to the extreme, crazy gameshows with people dressed as giant insects, and silly dances- it really shouldn’t be funny, but it really is. Japanese “owarai”, or comedy, is a unique feature of Japan, and luckily most of the humour isn’t lost in translation (although understanding Japanese helps). Check out Sekai No Nabeatsu, Fujisaki Market, Kojima Yoshio and Okamura 99.

8. Nomihodie

Nomihodie, or “All You Can Drink”. Of course we do have all-you-can-drink events in the UK. And even when it isn’t on offer, there’s always the option of, well, drinking all that you can. But Japan takes the all-you-can-drink event and turns it into an institution. In fact its more the effect of the nomihodie than the nomihodie itself- normally sober (in every sense) teachers let loose and say ridiculous things, people leap around like lunatics, all within a two hour time limit and all before lurching out into the street in search of more beers. Then the next day at work…no-one says a thing about the whole night. Like Japanese baseball games provide a group-organised way of supporting your team with zeal and enthusiasm, Japanese nomihodies provide a group-organised way of getting absolutely plastered. And, of course, its cheap!

7. The Inland Sea

- really is beautiful! It’s the real jewel of the Prefectures that surround it, and has so much to see and do that’s most definitely worth seeing and doing. Visit- Okunoshima for a glimpse at bunnies and Japan’s wartime past, Naoshima for an impressive new modern art project with several island attractions, and Shodoshima for monkeys and more. Also visit the surrounding coastline- Washuzan Highlands in Kojima, beautiful Ushimado to the east of Okayama, Onomichi to the west of Okayama for its special ramen, Takamatsu across the sea in Kagawa Prefecture and, of course, cross the Seto-Ohashi Bridge.

　

6. Love Hotels

Yes, it has be said, Japanese Lurrve Hotels rock. From giant jaccuzzis to giant TVs with free Playstation rentel to, err, rotating beds, Japanese Love Hotels aren’t only amazingly fun but are also amazingly cheap for what they are. For the same price as a homogenous business hotel a group of friends could crash here with karaoke, Playstation games and massive room all included, as well as a free breakfast. And they have crazy themes! Definitely a must on the list.

　the Walrus of Love, Barry White

5. Trains!

I Love Trains! I’d never have said that before coming to Japan, but living here makes a train nerd of anyone. Not only are they always on time, they also have catchy theme tunes to accompany their arrival and departure, while the Shinkansen is The Daddy of all trains, traveling close to the speed of light whilst providing a travel experience that feels like floating on a cloud. Another great train-related thing is the white-gloved attendants who man them, bowing each time they enter a carriage, and religiously pointing in the direction the train is going every few seconds, as if it could suddenly race right off the tracks. Brilliant.

 

4. Karaoke!

Karaoke! Its such a simple idea, so poorly utilised in the UK, yet in Japan its a passtime revelation! What else is there to say, except that it can be combined with number 8, nomihodie, to wonderful effect.

3. Hokkaido

…a shock entry at number 3! Yes, despite the almost compulsory entry of Kyoto at 10, the nearby Inland Sea and the upcoming entry of Tokyo, Hokkaido was the genuine surprise of my travels in Japan. Of all the places I visited in my two years, only Hokkaido left me speechless with its stark natural beauty and vastness. It helped that we did a lot of driving in my few days up there, crossing the mountains going from Asahikawa to Abashiri. While I visited the Snow Festival in Sapporo, the real attraction was the countryside itself- driving between huge mountains, passing frozen lakes and reservoirs, until we got to a frozen sea. Simply amazing- I only wish I could go back in summer when its beautiful in an entirely different kind of way, but definitely go in the winter for shock value! (unless ur Canadian)

 

2. Japanese Food

What amazed me most about Japanese food was not the tastyness, but the sheer variety there is on offer. From vegetarian temple food to yakitori skewers, yakiniku barbeques and shabu-shabu, Japan has everything. Sushi, sashimi, ramen (tonkotsu, chashu, miso), soba, udon, tonkatsu, sukiyaki, teppanyaki…the list goes on and on. It does fall short in the Japanese-Western-food department, where someone thought it’d be OK to make a cube-shaped omlette and a pasta sauce made of fish eggs, but hey, does this really count as Japanese food? Try my top 3- tonkotsu ramen, sushi at Tsukiji Market, and yakitori with beer.

1. Tokyo

…is just so shiny! Watch Lost in Translation, and feel the Tokyo vibe. Visit Asakusa, Akihabara, Harajuku, Ebisu, Ueno, and of course the crowning jewels of Shibuya and Shinjuku- the neon lights shining out at 4am make it seem like it’s the middle afternoon, and the combination of artificial daytime and crazy vibe acts like a drug that propels you forward, seeking further fun and adventure until the sun comes up and its time to take the 5.30am commuter train back to a bed. There’s also plenty to see during the day, from temples in Asakusa and the Meiji Jingu, to Harajuku cosplay and otaku-dominated Akihabara, to modern art in Tokyo Midtown and Roppongi Hills. It really is such an amazing city…sekai number one!

 

Shibuya Crossing at Busy O’Clock  …  And 5am in the Morning

 

These might be my top 10, but theres so much more. Check out…

 

Culture- Japanese Baseball, Vending Machines, Combinis, J-Pop, Izakayas, Sumo Tournaments!

Places- Kobe, Nagasaki, Hiroshima, Mount Fuji

 

Japan to Korea

I felt a more considered and lengthy post was necessary after a few brief updates with little content. It’s looking like I’ll be landing in Seoul in late August for another foreign sojourn, after only a two week break back in Old Blighty. Its too short a time at home really, but c’est la vie. What should I expect and what can I do to prepare for living in another country?

One of the big problems is shifting expectations. After two years in Japan I’ve fell in love with its language and culture, enjoyed nights out with Japanese friends speaking (predominantly) Japanese only. Yet now I’ll be going to a country where I can’t even read the basic script, and can say no more than “please”, “thank you” and “beer” (a Tim sized foreign language vocabulary). Going back to stage one is going to be frustrating, but I’ve certainly learnt a lot about the living processes in a foreign country from my two years in Japan. Luckily the Korean script is fairly easy to master, and after a month or so I should be able to…yes…read everything! Even if I don’t understand it. Thats more than I can do at the moment in Japanese, thanks to the 2000 kanji or so required to read a newspaper (I know about 400 of these after 2 years). The other problem with living in a second foreign country is an urge to continually compare things with Japan. There’s a huge amount of Japanese culture- restaurants, manga and karaoke to name but a few- available in Seoul, so I’ll definately be able to get my fix of cool-Japanness. But its important to engage with the Korean side of things without judgement, or continual comparisons to Japan. Mind you, that would probably be the case if I was staying in the UK too, although Koreans might take a slightly dimmer view of me championing Japanese culture than Brits.

A second change is going to be moving from Okayama to Seoul. Even though my image of Korea compared to Japan is of a less developed place, Seoul will obviously be bigger, shinier and more metropolitan than Okayama is. In fact, it’ll easily be the biggest place I’ve lived. Only good can come from such shinyness.

Despite differences, the basic Asian mindset means that a move from Japan to Korea won’t be as shocking or challenging as a move from the UK to Korea would be- there are many similarities such as social hierarchy, and public manners/expected behaviour. Stereotypes are similar too- otaku teenages putting in all-nighters at Internet Cafes, wives staying at home and caring for the children while their drunken salaried husbands go out drinking obscene amounts of soju (shochu in Korean) and stealing bicycles, and an over-stuffy, inflexible beaurocracy. How true these stereotypes are I’ll have to find out…

Only Won Way To Go

I passed the SMOE interview for a job in Seoul, and have been offered a teaching gig at a slightly higher salary than I expected- 2.2 million won a month. I won that one! Hee hee. Anyway, it looks like I’ll be going to Seoul, South Korea next.

Next week is my Week of Destiny- last lessons on Monday and Wednesday, with a last trip to see Hanshin Tigers sandwiched in between on the Tuesday. Then its buying my flight on the Thursday, and two speeches on Friday- one from 10am at Shonan, and another at 5.30pm at Seishi. A busy and stressful week, after which I’ll only have three more weeks on these fair, wonderful isles. Despite getting the Korea gig, and returning home after two years, my thoughts are predominantly sadness at leaving lovely Japan, the best country ever! I’ve embraced Japan-ness like nothing else, and even if I don’t return (to quote a line from my speech draft), Japan will always have a place in my heart. いつも心の中にいるでしょう。Although I’d be sad if I didn’t return- theres still plenty of fun to be had in Tokyo at some point in the future.

Still, looking forward…I’ll be back in the UK from the 9th, just enough time to catch up with family, friends (both staying and departing ones), and the Blues. Then I have to leave for Korea on the 25th. A crazy summer schedule! How will things go in Seoul? Will I enjoy living in a big big city? And can I possible squeeze another foreign tongue into my already addled brain? Find out here, on Mixed-Up Confusion (zing!)